A Guide to Traditional Indian Jewelry: From the Maang Tikka to the Kamarbandh, 10 Classic Pieces You Should Know.

Traditional Indian jewelry mixes craft, symbolism, and regional style. Each piece has a clear function, a usual way to wear it, and typical materials. Knowing these basics helps you choose, care for, and understand what you see in weddings and festivals. Below are ten classic pieces, what they look like, how they’re made, and why they matter.

Maang Tikka

The maang tikka is a forehead pendant that hangs on the hair parting. It centers the face and marks the third eye in many bridal looks. Typical length ranges from 40 to 80 mm for the pendant drop. Traditional maang tikkas use 22k gold for its warm color and malleability. They are often set with polki (uncut diamonds) or kundan glass. The chain that clips into the hair can be 1–2 mm thick and is usually lightweight so it sits comfortably for hours. Choose a flatter base if you wear it daily; pick heavier, gem-set versions for weddings because they are meant to be showpieces.

Nath (Nose Ring)

The nath is a ring worn on the nostril, often with a chain to the hair or ear. Diameters vary widely: small studs are 6–10 mm; bridal naths range 40–60 mm across and may be 0.5–2 grams of gold heavier. Silver (.925) is common for everyday wear in some regions because it’s inexpensive and hypoallergenic. Bridal naths often feature pearls or small polki stones. The nath is cultural and regional: Maharashtrian naths have a beaded string, while Rajasthani types are larger and more ornate. Measure your nostril size and choose an opening type that clips or screws to avoid slipping.

Jhumka (Bell Earring)

Jhumkas are bell-shaped earrings with a dome and fringe. Drops run 30–70 mm depending on how dramatic the wearer wants to be. Classic make uses 22k gold or gold-plated silver for lightweight fullness. Kundan and meenakari (enamel) are frequent decorations because they add color without heavy diamonds. Jhumkas balance the face and animate movement; choose 30–40 mm for daily wear, and 50–70 mm for bridal or stage performance. Check the post or hook width (0.7–1.2 mm) for comfort and compatibility with pierced ears.

Choker

Chokers sit high on the neck and frame the jaw. Typical lengths are 30–36 cm (12–14 inches) for an adult. They can be rigid—an open collar in gold—or flexible with beads and chains. Traditional chokers are often 18k–22k gold because those alloys hold crisp filigree and motifs. Stones are small: 1–3 mm diamonds or 3–8 mm colored stones like emeralds. Chokers work with sarees and lehengas because they emphasize the neckline. For comfort, choose a choker with rounded back edges and a secure clasp.

Rani Haar (Long Necklace)

Rani haar means “queen’s necklace.” These are long, layered pieces that fall below the bust. Lengths commonly range from 60 to 90 cm. They use heavy gold, sometimes 22k chains interspersed with beads, uncut diamonds (polki), or large central pendants of 5–20 ct. The Rani haar was a status symbol. Today it anchors bridal looks. Because of the weight, make sure the chain thickness (1.5–3 mm) and clasp type distribute the load to avoid breakage.

Mangalsutra

The mangalsutra is a sacred necklace worn by married women. The essential components are black glass beads and gold beads on a chain. Pendant sizes vary: small pendants 8–15 mm are common today; traditional versions can be 20–30 mm. Gold purity ranges 18k–22k. The black beads are believed to protect the marriage. Design choices now balance symbolism and wearability—slimmer chains and lighter pendants make daily wear comfortable while keeping the traditional look.

Bangles and Chooda

Bangles (kangan, kada) come as thin stacked circles or broader cuffs. Common inner diameters are 62–68 mm for adults, and widths run from 2 mm (slim) to 20 mm (broad kada). Bridal chooda sets from Punjab use red and white lacquered bangles plus gold ones. Gold bangles are often 22k because higher purity gives a richer color and easier modification. For durability, 18k or hollow constructions reduce weight but require careful handling because thinner walls dent more easily.

Kamarbandh (Waist Belt)

The kamarbandh is a decorative waist chain or belt. Widths vary from a slim 8–15 mm chain to 2–5 cm ornate belts with pendants. Materials include 22k gold for bridal belts and silver metal for temple-style belts. Kamarbandhs distribute ornament weight across the waist, keeping sarees and lehengas in place. For comfort, choose a flexible link style with an adjustable hook. If the belt carries heavy gemstones—polki or emerald drops—ensure the thread or clasp is reinforced to prevent tearing the garment.

Payal (Anklet) and Toe Rings

Payals are ankle chains often made of silver (.925) because silver produces a distinct jingle. Chain thickness ranges 1–3 mm, and anklet diameters vary by ankle size—measure around the narrowest part of the ankle. Bells or ghungroo of 4–8 mm add sound and weight. Toe rings (bichiya) are usually silver, band widths 2–4 mm, sized to fit the second toe. These pieces came from cultural practices and reproductive symbolism in some communities. Silver is used because it’s cheaper for pieces exposed to water and daily wear.

Bajuband (Armlet)

The bajuband is worn on the upper arm. Widths commonly run 10–40 mm. Traditionally cast in 22k gold with filigree and gemstone settings, armlets often have a hinge or adjustable chain to fit. They were practical in securing sleeve drapes and symbolic of status and protection. Choose a hinged design for ease of wear. If you want daily wear, prefer lighter alloys or silver to avoid arm fatigue.

Care and selection tips: Prefer 22k gold for traditional color and easy resizing; choose 18k for everyday durability. For silver pieces, look for .925 marking. Protect enamel (meenakari) and polki from solvents—avoid perfumes and hairspray. Store each item flat or separated so chains don’t tangle and gemstones don’t scratch. Finally, match scale to occasion: smaller, lighter pieces for daily wear; larger, heavier sets for ceremonial use because they’re made to be seen and to last.