Kundan vs. Polki Jewelry: What’s the Real Difference and Which One Is More Expensive? Make the Right Choice for Your Wedding.

Picking jewelry for a wedding means balancing looks, durability and long‑term value. Kundan and polki are two classic choices for South Asian bridal jewelry. They often look similar at first glance, but they are different in materials, making technique, maintenance and price. This guide explains the real differences, when one is a better fit for your wedding, and which typically costs more — with practical, actionable advice so you can choose the right set for the day.

What “Kundan” and “Polki” actually mean

Kundan describes a setting method. Craftsmen press thin sheets of gold (called zari) between the gemstone and the metal framework to hold stones in place. Traditional kundan uses a lac (resin) base and high‑karat gold foil — often 22K–24K — to create a smooth, mirror‑like setting. Stones can be glass, semi‑precious gems, or precious stones.

Polki refers to the material: uncut, natural diamonds. Polki stones are rough, lightly faceted slices of diamond with irregular surfaces that produce a soft, antique sparkle rather than modern brilliance. Polki is most often set using kundan or bezel techniques, so you’ll commonly see the term “polki kundan.”

Key physical and technical differences

• Material: Polki = uncut diamonds (real diamond content). Kundan = a technique; the stones may be glass, cubic zirconia, emerald, ruby, or polki diamonds.
• Gold foil and alloy: Traditional kundan uses very high‑purity gold foil (22K–24K). Modern bridal kundan may use 18K or 22K gold alloy for strength. Polki pieces typically use 22K gold for authenticity and to match antique styling.
• Weight and feel: Kundan pieces that use lac are lighter but more fragile. Polki sets feel heavier because of diamond and gold weight, especially when total carat weight (ctw) is high — common polki sets range from a few carats up to 20+ ctw for heavy bridal chokers.
• Appearance: Kundan gives a flat, highly reflective surface and can be very colorful when using enamel or colored gems. Polki gives a warm, subdued sparkle with irregular flashes from uncut diamonds.

Durability and care: why technique matters

Kundan pieces can be delicate. The lac base and thin gold foil are vulnerable to moisture, sweat, perfume and ultrasonic cleaning. Over time, the gold foil can discolor or detach; stones set on lac can loosen. For care: avoid water, wipe with a soft dry cloth after wear, store in airtight pouches and get professional re‑foiling if needed.

Polki diamonds are hard (diamonds are the hardest natural mineral), so the stones themselves are durable. But the setting is often delicate because polki is set with thin gold bezels or kundan foil. Avoid heavy impact and remove polki jewelry for strenuous activity. Clean gently with a soft brush and warm soapy water; avoid aggressive ultrasonic cleaning unless the jeweler confirms it’s safe for that mounting.

Which is more expensive — polki or kundan?

In most cases, polki is more expensive because you are buying natural diamond weight. Price drivers are:

• Diamond carat weight: Polki pricing is dominated by total carat weight (ctw) and the size distribution of stones. A single 1.5 ct polki stone costs far more than several grams of glass or semi‑precious stones used in kundan.
• Gold purity and weight: Both styles use high‑karat gold. A heavy 22K polki choker with high ctw will cost significantly more than a similarly styled kundan piece made with glass or semi‑precious stones.
• Craftsmanship: Fine kundan work is labor intensive; high craftsmanship raises price. But even a very intricate kundan set with no precious diamonds rarely matches the raw material cost of a polki diamond set with comparable gold weight.

Example price ranges (approximate, USD):

• Entry kundan (glass or simulated stones, gold plating or lightweight gold): $200–$1,500.
• Traditional kundan with precious stones (emeralds/rubies) and 22K gold: $1,500–$7,000.
• Polki bridal set (several ctw of polki, 22K gold): $8,000–$50,000+. Large carat counts or high gold weight push this higher.

These numbers vary by country, market and current gold/diamond rates. Ask the jeweler for explicit carat weights (ct), stone sizes in mm, gold purity (karat) and net gold weight in grams. For polki, request documentation about diamond origin or grading if available.

Resale value and long‑term investment

Polki holds value better because diamonds and high‑karat gold have intrinsic market value. Kundan made with glass or simulated stones has low resale value beyond gold salvage and craftsmanship. Kundan with real gemstones retains more value but still usually less than comparable polki sets.

How to choose for your wedding

Decide by budget, outfit, comfort and long‑term goals:

• Budget under $2,000: Choose kundan with high‑quality craftsmanship and real semi‑precious stones. It will look bridal without the diamond price tag.
• Budget $2,000–$10,000: Mix and match. Use a polki focal piece (necklace or maang tikka) and kundan for supporting pieces to control cost but keep diamond sparkle.
• Budget $10,000+: Full polki bridal set is the classic investment. Prefer 22K gold for authenticity and value retention.
• Comfort & venue: Kundan can be lighter for long ceremonies. For outdoor/humid weddings, prefer metal mounts over lac‑backed kundan to avoid moisture issues.
• Style match: Kundan suits very ornate, colorful lehengas and traditional Rajasthani/Mughal looks. Polki suits timeless, elegant bridal silhouettes and works well with both day and evening events.

Practical buying checklist

• Ask for carat weight (ct) for polki and net gold weight (g) and karat (e.g., 22K) for either piece.
• Request clear photos of the back and close‑ups of settings to check for lac vs metal backing.
• Insist on a return or repair policy and get cleaning/care instructions in writing.
• For polki, ask about certification or provenance for large stones; for kundan, confirm whether stones are genuine or simulated.

Bottom line: choose kundan for ornate, colorful bridal looks on a moderate budget or when you want lighter pieces. Choose polki when you want real diamond value, timeless sparkle and are ready to invest more. For many brides, a blended approach — a single polki statement piece paired with kundan accessories — gives the best balance of beauty, comfort and value.