Antique Jewelry Value: That Old Brooch in Your Grandma’s Box Could Be Worth Thousands, How to Get It Appraised Without Getting Scammed.

Your grandmother’s brooch might be worth a few hundred dollars—or a few thousand. The difference comes down to what it is, who made it, how original it remains, and how you verify it. This guide explains how value is determined and how to get a proper appraisal without getting taken advantage of.

What makes antique jewelry valuable

Jewelry over 100 years old is considered antique. Age alone doesn’t create value. Buyers pay for a mix of materials, craftsmanship, design significance, condition, and provenance. Here’s why each matters:

• Materials: High-karat gold, platinum, and natural gemstones command more. Precious metals are intrinsic value; stones and design add premiums.
• Craftsmanship: Hand-chased gold, intricate enamel, micro-mosaic, or delicate filigree are labor-intensive and rare today, which boosts value.
• Design period: Recognizable periods—Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro—have collector followings. Demand pushes prices up.
• Maker: Signed pieces (Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Lalique) can multiply value because buyers trust the design and quality.
• Condition and originality: Untouched surfaces, original clasps, and original stones are worth more. Replaced components or recut stones reduce desirability because they erase history.
• Provenance: Documented ownership (photos, receipts, boxes) adds confidence and can raise price, especially for named makers.
• Rarity and scale: Unusual motifs or large, wearable pieces are harder to find and draw competition.

First pass: what you can check at home

Perform non-destructive checks. Avoid scratch tests or untrained acid tests; they can ruin value.

• Look for marks: Use a 10x loupe. Check the back and edges for karat marks (10K, 14K, 18K), platinum (PT, PLAT, 950), silver (800, 900, 925, “STERLING”), and maker’s marks.
• Weigh and measure: Weight hints at solid vs plated. Note dimensions and stone sizes; appraisers will ask.
• Stone clues: Old mine or old European cut diamonds have a small table and open culet. Glass “paste” shows bubbles and softer facet edges. Many Victorian brooches used paste in silver-topped gold.
• Pearls: Gently rub against your tooth. Gritty = likely natural or cultured; slippery = plastic/glass. Don’t pry pearls out to inspect.
• Magnet test: A strong magnet should not attract gold, silver, or platinum. Attraction suggests base metal or plated parts.
• UV light: Some diamonds fluoresce; many glass stones do not. It’s one clue, not a verdict.
• Photograph it: Front, back, clasp, hallmarks, and any repairs. Good photos help you get preliminary opinions.

Common hallmarks and clues by era

Hallmarks and construction details help date a piece, which affects value because collectors chase specific periods.

• Georgian (1714–1837): Closed-back settings, foil behind stones, hand-cut diamonds, simple C-clasps. True Georgian is scarce and desirable.
• Victorian (1837–1901): Mourning pieces with jet, onyx, hairwork. Gold tests around 9–15–18K. Open C-clasps, tube hinges. Silver-topped gold for diamonds was common.
• Edwardian (1901–1910s): Platinum or platinum over gold, lace-like filigree, delicate settings. Old European cut diamonds, natural pearls.
• Art Nouveau (1890s–1910): Whiplash lines, plique-à-jour enamel, mythic female forms. Maker signatures (Lalique) transform value.
• Art Deco (1920s–1930s): Geometric, platinum, calibré-cut gems, onyx, rock crystal. Strong collector demand supports higher prices.
• Retro (1940s): Big, bold gold, rubies, citrine, aquamarine. Practical and wearable, steady market interest.

Country marks: British pieces carry assay marks (lion passant for sterling; leopard’s head, anchor, etc., for assay offices; a date letter). France used the eagle head for 18K gold. U.S. often shows karat only plus a maker’s stamp.

Brooch-specific dating tips

• Clasps: Open C-catch (early to late 1800s), trombone clasp (late 1800s–mid 1900s), safety rolling clasp (20th century onward). Replaced clasps can lower value because they disturb originality.
• Hinges and pins: Tube hinges and long pins often indicate 19th century.
• Conversions: A brooch converted to a pendant can reduce value unless reversible and professionally done.

Preparing for an appraisal

Good prep saves time and money and protects you.

• Gather documents: Old receipts, family notes, photos of the original owner wearing it, and original boxes all support value.
• Gentle cleaning: Use a soft brush and mild soapy water for metal and durable stones, then dry fully. Avoid soaking foil-backed pieces, porous stones (opal, turquoise), or anything with delicate enamel.
• Inventory list: Assign each item a number, description, and quick photo. It reduces mix-ups and speeds intake.
• Set goals: Insurance, estate division, donation, or resale each require a different type of appraisal.

Choosing the right type of appraisal

Using the wrong value sets false expectations or wrong insurance coverage.

• Insurance replacement value: Retail-level cost to replace with a comparable item. Higher than resale. Good for scheduling items on your policy.
• Fair market value (FMV): Price between a willing buyer and seller in the secondary market. Used for estate, donation, and equitable division.
• Liquidation value: Quick-sale price under time pressure. Lowest value, used for urgent sales or probate constraints.

How to find a trustworthy appraiser (and avoid scams)

Conflicts of interest and inflated paperwork are the biggest risks. Here’s how to protect yourself:

• Credentials matter: Look for professional affiliations and training such as GIA Graduate Gemologist for stones, and appraisal organizations (ASA, ISA, NAJA). Training ensures method and ethics.
• Fee structure: Pay hourly or a flat fee. Never a percentage of value; that encourages inflation.
• Independence: Prefer appraisers who do not also buy your items. “Free appraisals” from buyers are offers, not appraisals.
• Sample report: Ask for a redacted example. A proper report includes photos, measurements, metal testing method, stone identification, grading standards used, and the value definition (e.g., FMV, Replacement).
• References and insurance: Reputable appraisers carry liability insurance and can provide references. It shows they take custody seriously.

During the appointment: procedures that protect you

• Chain of custody: Get an itemized receipt with descriptions and photos if you must leave the piece. Prefer on-site, while-you-watch evaluations when possible.
• Stone security: If a gem must be unmounted, watch the process or ask for tamper-evident bags and before/after weights and measurements.
• Testing transparency: Expect explanations: metal test type (XRF vs. acid), stone testing (refractometer, polariscope, thermal/electrical conductivity). Vague answers are a red flag.
• No pressure: Anyone pushing to buy immediately, or warning it will be “melted today,” is using fear to lower your price.

If you plan to sell: where and what to expect

The right venue depends on the piece. You trade speed for price.

• Major auction houses: Best for signed or important pieces. Global marketing, but fees apply and timing can be months. Pre-sale estimates are based on comps.
• Regional auctions: Good for mid-range antiques. Lower fees, local buyers, faster turnaround.
• Specialist dealers: Offer expertise and immediate cash. Expect to receive wholesale pricing; they need margin to resell.
• Consignment galleries or vetted online marketplaces: Higher payout than wholesale, but slower. Commission-only when sold.
• Gold buyers: Only for damaged or low-demand pieces; you’ll get metal weight value, not design or maker premiums.

Always compare at least two offers. Bring your appraisal and photos of similar recent sales to align expectations.

Cleaning and care (what not to do)

• Do not ultrasonically clean foil-backed stones, enamel, opals, pearls, or anything with old glue. Vibrations can wreck historic settings.
• Don’t polish away patina. A soft glow is part of the appeal. Over-buffing thins metal and lowers value.
• Store separately in soft pouches or acid-free paper. Hard stones scratch soft ones.

Quick reality checks: examples

• Victorian mourning brooch: Jet with a hair compartment, original C-clasp, name/date engraving. Materials are modest, but intact mourning context and original fittings make it collectible. Often a few hundred dollars; exceptional pieces more.
• Art Deco platinum diamond clip: Old European cuts, calibré sapphires, signed by a top house. Wearable, high-demand period, signed. Can reach five figures because collectors chase design and signature.
• Cameo brooch: Shell cameo in low-karat frame with a modern safety clasp. If the clasp is a later replacement and the carving is tourist-grade, value stays modest. Finely carved hardstone cameos with gold mounts and original fittings do better.

Legal and ethical considerations

• Restricted materials: Tortoiseshell, ivory, and some corals face trade and export rules. An appraiser should flag them; selling may require permits or be prohibited.
• Lab-grown vs natural: Older pieces usually contain natural stones, but replacements happen. Only advanced testing or lab reports settle this. Natural often sells higher.
• Stolen property checks: For high-value items, ask about checking against stolen property databases. It protects you and future buyers.

Your step-by-step plan

• 1) Document: Photos of front/back/hallmarks, measurements, weights, any provenance.
• 2) Do safe checks: Loupe for marks, magnet test, gentle clean, no scratching or prying.
• 3) Choose appraisal type: Insurance, FMV, or liquidation. Tell the appraiser your purpose.
• 4) Hire an independent pro: Verified credentials, hourly fee, sample report, no buying pressure.
• 5) Attend if possible: Keep chain of custody; get itemized receipts and photos.
• 6) Decide to keep, insure, or sell: If selling, get multiple offers and pick the right venue for the piece.
• 7) Maintain: Store properly and reappraise for insurance every 3–5 years as markets change.

The bottom line: your grandmother’s brooch could be a decorative trinket or a serious heirloom. You won’t know until someone independent, trained, and transparent evaluates it. Take a cautious, documented approach. You’ll either gain a fair market value for selling—or the peace of mind to insure and enjoy a piece of family history.