People sometimes say a gemstone “stopped working.” They mean the stone no longer looks right, no longer seems to do what they expected, or it feels less special. Often the real reasons are physical changes, mistaken care, or shifting expectations. Rarely is the stone suddenly “dead.” Below I explain the common mistakes behind that phrase. I include specific examples, what to look for, and practical fixes.
What people mean by “stopped working”
Some describe a loss of sparkle, color, or perceived power. Others mean the gem chipped, lost luster, or the setting failed. The word “stopped” implies a sudden failure. In most cases the change is gradual or caused by something fixable. Understanding why helps decide whether you need cleaning, repair, or simply a reality check about what the gem can and cannot do.
Common physical causes
- Surface dirt and oil. Skin oils, lotion, sunscreen, and perfume build up. Even a 1 ct stone of about 6.5 mm can look dull if coated. Cleaning often restores brilliance. Reason: oils change how light enters and reflects from the stone.
- Scratches and abrasions. Softer gems—pearls (2.5–4.5 Mohs), opal (5–6), tanzanite (6–7)—scratch easily. Scratches scatter light, reducing shine. Diamonds (10) resist scratches, but their settings can wear.
- Fractures and chips. Mechanical knocks can create chips or internal fractures. Example: a 7 mm topaz can fracture from a hard knock at the girdle. Fractures change the way light travels and can trap dirt or polish residues, making the stone look dead.
- Treatment breakdown. Many gems are treated. Emeralds are commonly oiled with cedar or resin to improve clarity. Over time oils dry or evaporate, revealing fractures again. Rubies filled with lead-glass are porous and lose appearance if exposed to heat, steam, or harsh chemicals. Why it matters: treatments affect durability and care needs.
- Color fading from light or heat. Some stones fade in strong sunlight or heat. Amethyst’s purple can weaken after prolonged UV exposure. Opals can craze or lose water in very dry heat, changing play-of-color.
- Setting problems. Thin prongs or loose bezels alter how a stone sits and how light enters it. Example: prongs under ~0.8 mm on a 6–7 mm stone may bend over time, letting the stone tilt and look lifeless.
Common psychological and expectation errors
- Initial effect and habituation. New jewelry feels special. Over months the novelty fades. The brain stops noticing small sensory cues. The gem hasn’t changed; your attention has.
- Confirmation bias and storytelling. If you expect a stone to produce a specific life change, you will notice events that confirm that expectation and ignore others. When life shifts, you may say the stone “stopped.” The reason is altered interpretation, not an altered stone.
- Mismatched expectations. Some buyers expect metaphysical or dramatic changes. Jewelry is primarily an aesthetic and wearable item. Expecting guaranteed outcomes sets you up for disappointment.
Care mistakes that “kill” a stone
- Ultrasonic cleaning for treated or fracture-filled stones. Ultrasonic cleaners can drive liquids into fractures or remove surface diffusion layers. Avoid ultrasonic cleaning for emeralds, fracture-filled rubies, and some porous turquoise. When in doubt, use warm soapy water and a soft brush.
- Steam cleaning. Steam can remove oils that are intentionally used to improve clarity. For an oil-treated emerald, steam removes the oil and makes fractures visible again.
- Exposure to acids, chlorine, or cosmetics. Pearls lose luster from acids and perfume. Gold alloys (14k = 58.3% Au, 18k = 75% Au) are affected by chlorine over time—prongs can thin, endangering the stone.
- Improper storage. Storing a soft gem next to a harder gem causes scratching. Keep pearls and opals separate in soft cloth pouches.
How to check whether a stone really “stopped working”
- Visual inspection. Use a clean soft cloth and mild soap to remove surface oils. Does the stone regain sparkle? If yes, it was dirt or oil.
- Loupe or microscope. Look for chips, abrasions, or loss of treatment (bubbles or cloudy zones indicate filling). A 10x loupe commonly used by jewelers will reveal many issues.
- Ask about treatments and origin. If the seller told you a stone was heated, oiled, diffusion-treated, or fracture-filled, follow the specific care instructions. If you don’t have that information, ask for a lab report or appraisal.
- Professional appraisal or gemological testing. Refractive index, UV reaction, and spectroscopy can confirm treatments or identify dyeing and filling. That tells you if the change is structural or cosmetic.
Practical fixes
- Cleaning and re-polish. Many stones only need cleaning. Minor scratches can be removed by a lapidary or jeweler re-polish.
- Re-oiling or re-treatment. Oiled emeralds can be re-oiled. This is a routine and relatively low-cost shop job. It restores clarity but is not permanent.
- Repairs and re-setting. Tightening or replacing prongs costs less than replacing a stone. For loose stones, immediate repair prevents loss.
- Replacement or upgrade. For badly damaged or unstable gems (like lead-glass rubies damaged by heat), replacement is often the safest route.
Prevention—simple, specific steps
- Remove jewelry for chores, sports, and gardening. Even a 0.5 mm impact at the girdle can chip many gems.
- Avoid hot steam or strong chemicals for treated stones. Don’t use ultrasonic cleaners on fracture-filled or oiled gems.
- Store pearls, opals, and turquoise separately in soft pouches to prevent scratches and humidity loss.
- Have prongs checked every 6–12 months if you wear pieces frequently. Small repairs prevent big losses.
- Keep receipts and treatment information. A lab report helps with care and insurance.
Bottom line
Most stones don’t “stop working.” They get dirty, damaged, need treatment renewed, or your expectations change. Physical causes—scratches, chips, faded treatment—are usually diagnosable and fixable. Psychological reasons are common and real, but not a failure of the gem. If a favorite piece seems different, start with a careful cleaning and inspection. If that doesn’t help, see a qualified jeweler or gemologist. They will tell you whether the issue is preventable, repairable, or inherent to the gem’s treatment or material.
I am G S Sachin, a gemologist with a Diploma in Polished Diamond Grading from KGK Academy, Jaipur. I love writing about jewelry, gems, and diamonds, and I share simple, honest reviews and easy buying tips on JewellersReviews.com to help you choose pieces you’ll love with confidence.